For some time now, merino has been competing with the classic cashmere as a premium wool. But there a several differences between the two. Just to name one: merino is one of the few types of wool that is thermoregulating, while cashmere is one of the softest fabrics on the skin. SANVT explains all of the differences between cashmere and merino, as well as how normal wool compares.
Benefits of merino wool at a glance
- Cashmere is not the only winner in terms of softness. Merino is also extremely pleasant to the skin. The secret? Extra-fine fibres. This prevents the wool from feeling itchy on the skin.
- Breathable: Merino wool has the ability to thermoregulate. Moisture is effectively wicked away and heat can be stored at the same time. Ideal for all seasons.
- Odour-resistant: Thanks to its antibacterial properties, merino wool prevents the formation of odours.
- UV protection: You didn't know, did you? Merino offers protection from UV rays, albeit only a little. Nevertheless, you shouldn't do without proper sun protection.
What is merino wool?
The name ‘merino wool’ comes from the breed of sheep that produces the fine wool. Merino sheep originally come from Spain, but today they are mainly found in Australia and New Zealand. The climate there is actually responsible for the fine yarns. The favourable weather conditions enable the sheep to produce a fine coat.
With wool, a basic distinction is made between the length of the fibres as well as the fineness (micron). Basic rule: The shorter the amount of micron (μm) and fibre length, the higher the quality and softness. The structure of the wool also plays an important role. The coarser the structure, the more difficult the fibres are to process. Coarse, long wool (100-150 mm) is obtained from Cheviot sheep and has a micron amount of around 27-35 μm, for example, and is used to make coarse knitwear or carpets. In contrast, merino wool consists of short but very fine fibres (65-100 mm) wit and is used for socks, sportswear or knitted jumpers due to its softness. Merino wool can be categorised into four types:
- superfine (16,5-18,9 μm)
- extrafine / fine (19-21,9 μm)
- medium (22-23 μm)
- strong (23,5 - 24 μm)
As a comparison: human hair has a diameter of about 30 μm and the human sensitivity threshold to fibers feeling itchy lies around 25 μm.
Benefits of merino wool
The reason why merino wool is so popular is largely due to its softness. Anyone who has ever worn an item of clothing containing merino wool knows how pleasant it feels on the skin. The fine and short yarns of merino wool are responsible for this.
The second advantage is the thermo-regulating function of the wool. Merino wool is very breathable. This means that merino wool always regulates your body temperature - all year round. It stores heat and, conversely, can effectively dissipate heat and moisture. In fact, merino has the ability to absorb up to 30% of its own weight in moisture. Sounds good, doesn't it? This can be a great advantage, especially during surprisingly high temperatures in spring or late summer evenings.
Speaking of warm temperatures, we come straight to advantage number three of merino wool: its antibacterial and odour-resistant properties. Of course, it is obvious that merino wool garments are not worn in summer. However, as already explained, sportswear and outdoor clothing (such as functional shirts) are also made from merino wool for a reason. Merino is not only thermo-regulating, but also has a natural self-cleaning function and can neutralise absorbed odours (including sweat) and release them back into the air. In addition, like all types of wool, merino hardly absorbs any dirt particles.
Another property of merino that benefits people who spend a lot of time outdoors is a certain degree of protection against UV rays. This is due to the natural properties of the wool fibres. Firstly, merino wool has a complex structure with a dense arrangement of fibres. This dense structure is not only better at reflecting and secondly also blocks UV rays than many synthetic materials. This helps to reduce the amount of radiation that reaches the skin.
Merino wool and sustainability
There are two aspects of merino wool compared to other types of wool and synthetic materials that make merino wool sustainable. The first aspect lies in one of the benefits explained above: due to its light and fine structure merino is thermoregulating. Cooling in summer, due to the ability to absorb moisture without feeling soggy, and warming in winter, because the fibres lie very loosely on top of each other, creating air chambers that trap and retain body heat. Clothing with merino is therefore wearable all-year-round. It also lasts many years due to the high quality of the material thanks to the meticulous processing of the merino wool. As such, you'll need fewer merino wool items.
Secondly, merino wool is, like any type of wool, biodegradable and when disposed of it doesn't pollute the environment with chemicals like synthetic fibres do.
Merino wool vs. cashmere
Many people think of cashmere when they hear the term ‘premium wool’. This is probably because many people associate this high-quality wool with luxury. And for good reason: wool is known for its exceptional softness, warmth and lightness and is considered one of the most luxurious natural fibres in the world. But that doesn't necessarily mean that luxurious wool is the right choice for everyone. As with all types of wool, there are differences and advantages and disadvantages.
Cashmere goat vs. Merino sheep (left to right).
The name ‘cashmere’ is derived from the region of Kashmir - a high mountain region in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent (between India, China and Pakistan) that is known for producing the luxurious wool of the same name. This part of the world is home to the so-called cashmere goats, which produce the fine underhairs that are later processed into cashmere wool.
Why is cashmere wool so expensive?
Firstly, this has to do with the limited availability of the wool. As already explained, the cashmere goat can only be found in one specific region of the world. In addition, each goat only produces a small amount of cashmere wool (on average approx. 150-200g per year).
Another point is the elaborate production of the wool. Once the fine underhair of the goat has been painstakingly combed out by hand, the next step is the labour-intensive cleaning and processing into wool.
Pros and cons of cashmere
Cashmere has a good reputation in the luxury fashion sector and is know for it's softness. As already explained above, the smaller the length of the fibres and the diameter of the fibres, the softer the material feels on the skin. Cashmere wool fibres are around 18-42 mm long and have a micron amount of 14-19 μm. The short and very fine fibres result in softness.
As fine, soft and exclusive as cashmere wool may be, this type of wool also has its disadvantages. One of the main points here is that cashmere is difficult to care for and cannot be worn all year round. There are several reasons for this. Due to the conditions in the mountainous regions where cashmere goats graze, they develop a special coat to withstand the cold temperatures. Even though the wool keeps you very warm in winter, the wool (processed into a jumper or similar) is not breathable or thermo-regulating. Furthermore, the wool is sensitive due to the very fine cashmere fibres (14-19 microns in diameter). Due to their fineness, cashmere fibres tend to form small pills more quickly. In addition, cashmere garments can lose their fit more quickly if washed at too high a temperature or dried incorrectly.
Advantages and disadvantages of conventional sheep's wool
Conventional sheep's wool (e.g. from sheep such as the Cheviot or Romney) offers the counterpart to cashmere and merino wool. The lower price is made up of several components. Firstly, the production of conventional sheep's wool is intended for the mass market and is produced and sold in large quantities. The sheep breeds required for this are widely available and shearing them is less time-consuming and labour-intensive. In addition, ‘normal’ sheep's wool is thicker and more robust, which makes it more resistant. This benefits the processing and leads to lower production costs. Consumers are the main beneficiaries of the latter. However, the conditions behind the production of wool are sometimes unknown. Even though the cruel production practice of ‘mueling’ is illegal in most parts of the world, it is unfortunately still used from time to time.
The robust, thick wool can also be a disadvantage when it comes to comfort. Even if it is less sensitive to care, ‘normal’ wool does not score highly in terms of breathability and can also be scratchier on contact with the skin. This is because of the "higher" amount of fibre length (100-150 mm) as well as the fibre's fineness (27-35 μm).
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Conclusion
The hype surrounding merino wool is justified: Merino wool has a number of properties that make this premium wool an advantageous material for any garment. It is particularly soft, as it consists of extra-fine fibres that feel pleasant against the skin. The breathability of merino wool ensures effective thermoregulation: it wicks away moisture and retains heat at the same time, making it the ideal choice for all seasons.
Compared to other types of wool, cashmere is considered particularly luxurious due to its limited availability and elaborate processing, it is also more delicate and difficult to care for. Conventional sheep's wool, on the other hand, is more robust and less expensive, but less soft and breathable than merino wool.