The Breton stripe shirt, or la marinière, has long been a staple amongst the French, embodying a fresh, nautical, and effortless style. For more than 150 years, it was a common sight aboard the ships of the Marine Nationale along the Brittany coast. The French, always trendsetters, adopted la marinière for their everyday, fashionable (yet practical) lives.
But how did these stripes make their way from the decks of sailors to our everyday wardrobes? Its evolution from maritime essential to fashion icon is a meandering journey.
Keep scrolling to learn learning its full story or skip to a period of your liking:
- Middle ages
- Late 1800s
- Early 1900s
- Mid 1900s
- Late 1900s
- Present-day
Middle Ages: a sign to stay away
Way back when, stripes bore anything but the stylish connotation we associate them with today.
Michael Pastoureau’s 2001 book, ‘The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes’ revealed that stripes were originally worn by prostitutes, criminals, madmen and the like. European governments ordered that those on the fringes of society were “marked” so that they were easy to spot in a crowd.
Stripes were a visual cue that said, “This person is an outsider. Beware.”
Late 1800s: by decree of the French navy
In the 19th century, breton stripes gained their official name. Long before celebrities and other famous figures donned them, France’s mariners were the ones to sport this iconic print.
In 1858, a parliamentary act mandated that the ‘tricot rayé’ (striped knit) become a staple of Brittany’s naval uniform. Admiral Hamelin, then the Minister of Marine, penned the official decree specifying, “The body of the shirt will count twenty-one white stripes, each twice as wide as the twenty to twenty-one indigo blue stripes.” Keep in mind this was when France, under Napoleon III, held a lot of pride in its naval prowess. The legend goes that the number of stripes represented each of Napoleon Bonaparte’s victories over the British at sea.
The likelier reason behind the stripes is a tad less heroic. Technological advances in the 19th century made knitting stripes simpler. The ability to knit in the round allowed the Breton to be woven into a snug, seamless tube, eliminating the need for buttons that could snag on rigging or fishing nets.
Sources: Raw Pixel (left) and Wikimedia Commons (right).
But whatever the reason, their contrasting colors had a practical benefit: they made sailors who fell overboard much easier to spot in the water. Unlike the army, camouflage was of no use in the open seas.
Soon, the Breton stripe caught on with local seamen and fishermen in Northern France. Plus, with the garlic and onion sellers who peddled their goods at the Breton docks, too. Bold, eye-catching lines made them stand out, helping them attract attention in bustling markets.
Early 1900s: thank you, Coco
Heading into the 20th century, Breton tops were considered practical attire for coastal workers. But in 1917, as more people began vacationing along France’s coast, seaside styles represented a shift away from the heavy, tailored clothing of the past.
One such holidaymaker who noticed the simple chicness of Breton stripes was Coco Chanel. Inspired by the fishermen’s cheerful shirts, Chanel adapted the marinière, creating a short smock-like version. Her ‘garçonne’ (boy) look liberated women from the heavily corseted fashion of the Belle Époque. By borrowing from the marinière, Chanel introduced a gender-neutral image of female independence and freedom.
Source: Picryl
Her practical, jersey-knit creations soon became the epitome of urban chic. Her Breton design was stylish, expensive, and the ultimate example of trickle-up fashion, where trends from the street or working class are adopted by the rich and famous. Over the years, various public figures helped cement the Breton stripe as a symbol of summer days and joie de vivre.
Mid 1900s: cool culture
After World War II, rationing ended, shops filled with new goods, and the newly defined "teenager" had choices like never before. Keen to break away from the previous generation’s tastes, the youth embraced modernity.
Pablo Picasso famously adopted the Breton stripes as his artistic uniform, linking the pattern to a more bohemian lifestyle. The sailor's image of freedom resonated with the artists and intellectuals of the time.
Pop art pioneer Andy Warhol was another lover of Breton stripes.
In 1953, the Breton shirt made its Hollywood debut in "The Wild One" with Marlon Brando. James Dean sported it while challenging authority in "Rebel Without a Cause," and Audrey Hepburn donned a version in the 1957 classic "Funny Face." Costume designer Edith Head gave Cary Grant a suave look with a grey-striped Breton in Alfred Hitchcock’s "To Catch a Thief."
In Europe, the Breton's popularity soared with the French New Wave cinema (aka ‘Nouvelle Vague’). Jean Seberg wore it in Jean-Luc Godard’s 1960 film "Breathless." Brigitte Bardot was often seen in striped tops. In short, the Breton was the epitome of French cool.
Late 1900s: elevated evening wear
Jean-Paul Gaultier is another designer who leveraged the Breton stripe to his advantage.
While the Breton look was no longer cutting edge, it matured into a classic. In the 1980s, Gaultier elevated the humble stripe into evening wear, making it a go-to for those seeking elegance.
In 2020, Jean-Paul Gaultier held his final show, paying tribute to his signature designs.
Gaultier has become an ambassador for Breton stripes, incorporating the bold pattern into his designs across the board, including his brand perfume Le Male.
Present-day: a wardrobe staple
Breton stripes have become a fashion essential, with the laidback sailor vibes appealing to generation after generation of non-sailors.
In 2011, Karl Lagerfeld brought the Breton stripe to the French football team's kit. Household brands like Saint James and Petit Bateau celebrate the nautical theme, embodying timeless French values and quality tailoring.
Sartorial sport. Source: BolaSkor.
The Breton shirt has certainly evolved from its modest origins. Today, it’s a wardrobe must-have, much like a trench coat or little black dress. Its charm lies in its adaptability—it looks just as stylish with jeans and sneakers as it does under a blazer for a polished look.
The breton striped t-shirt at SANVT
Today, SANVT has added a new chapter to the breton stripes - with our striped t-shirt, sustainably made in the EU from premium 100% organic cotton. It’s a nod to history while being made for the age we’re living through and beyond…
The Striped Longsleeve T-Shirt (left) and The Striped Heavyweight T-Shirt (right) - both made from 235 GSM 100% organic cotton in Portugal.